labor exploitation

How many people fall along the way so that you have mountains of clothes? 

Imagine that fashion labels give this information. Unheard of , right? For there are companies that guarantee that their number is "zero" In a globalized world where consumption is growing and more accessible, major international clothing brands competing fiercely to provide a greater number of garments at the lowest possible price . Achieving this rate market goes through open factories in countries that are developing, where the minimum wage is lower than those who hire them ; and speed up production, thus leaving the workers in this sector in a situation of helplessness that results in the occurrence of diseases caused by chemicals, reduced life expectancy, and even death. It is the ugly side of fashion. The documentary The True Cost, which is designed for the first time in Spain in the Moritz Festival Feed Dog 2016 (Barcelona), delves into the contradictions of the so -called fast fashion, a contemporary term that defines a frantic with speed industry about trends stores at theexpense of the working conditions of their workers. Elena Saenz de Urturi, coordinator with Carol Blasco Sustainable La Rioja Fashion, explains: "This new model of rapid consumption and accumulation neglected natural resources and does not take into account the safety of workers, who are under increasing pressure by continuing threats to relocate their factories [change them to cut costs territory]. " The tragedy of Rana Plaza, which occurred in April 2013, is one of the strongest symbols of the direction taken by some of the players in the textile industry. And despite the bad reputation of made ​​in China as far as working conditions is concerned, the made ​​in Europe does not have to be better. Ten Eastern European countries (nine post - socialist economies and tiger Anatolia, Turkey) work making clothes for US textile companies and the rest of Europe, taking advantage ofits geographical proximity and low costs of their garments. So much so that workers from Bulgaria and Bosnia-Herzegovina stated that the legal minimum wage covers only 70% of its food needs. The only solution? Carry out survival measures. Borrow, reconcile this with other related work in the agricultural sector, working - as in Bulgaria to 108 hours per week (without which it would be impossible to survive) or borrow from the neighborsThis is confirmed a report by Clean Clothes Campaign, an alliance of organizations present in sixteen countries demand better wages for workers, aimed at reducing global poverty and fight against gender inequality. The study warns that the lives of three million textile workers are no better than those taking place in Asian countries.As in Asia, workers perceive a far removed the legal minimum wage monthly payment, but surprisingly, in the economies of Eastern Europe , the difference is even greater. Double discrimination against workers (many of them are single mothers) to consider their activity as a simple and unskilled occupation, unlike the technical work of men, usually devoted to those tasks traditionally male, also warns and that they require more physical strength. industry giants like Zara and H & M have generated benefits from the crisis, but their salaries have plummeted further since 2008, according to the same investigation. Herein, Clean Clothes Campaign urges companies to at least pay their workers 60% of the average national wage. A situation so gray has led many creators placed outside the industry. It is the rise of sustainable fashion, selling a way of thinking, as they say from the Swedish company Nudie Jeans Co, a firm of jeans. Another singular case is Heavy Eco Estonian company which manufactures recycled and organic garments in workshops formed by prisoners of Eastern Europe. In addition, 50% of its profits to homeless youth goes. What happens in Spain Stand in Galicia, the heart of fashion in our country as the kingdom of Almighty Inditex. A study conducted in 2015 by the EAE Business School concluded that from 2004 to 2014, the number of companies engaged in textile manufacturing in Galicia fell 34.1% due to the dissolution of seamstresses cooperatives without ability to adapt to market demands. Fóra Fíos documentary, made ​​by the producer Illa Bufarda, in collaboration with the association SETEM Amarante, sheds light on the situation of women workers during the past decades. Fernanda Couñago, director of the fair trade organization said they felt an obligation to restore the dignity that had been taken from them and to value their legacy. " We needed to go to the origins, to Galicia, and do justice to the thousands of women who lifted a sector such as textiles, and that due to offshoring, stayed in the street; sometimes even in debt. " Again, the syrup is called" sustainability ". The autonomous region has seen mushrooming companies under this umbrella to take over seamstresses cooperatives. Among the most popular is Xiro, which distributes green pants organic cotton, and puts the emphasis on local production, stained low impact and CCCR philosophy (care, repairs, customizes, creates). The textile industry in Spain is a sector on the rise. Spending by the Spanish grew by 0.68% compared to 2013, and is expected to increase 10.6% in 2019 to occur, according to the SEA. Each Spanish spends on average a little more than five hundred euros per year, and the curve will be upward the coming years. These data translate into huge amount of clothes, which first and then invades cabinets glass containers. Facing the waste, yes, campaigns, such as 333 #proyecto initiative, which proposes to live for three months with only 33 items arise. What can I do for sustainable fashion The slow fashion proposes a simple and creative way, another way ecological and ethical to face the dreaded what I wear. But what exactly what is sustainability? The former Prime Minister of Norway, Gro Harlem Brundtland, who led the study for the World Commission on Environment and Development defined sustainable development as that which "satisfies our needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs". Gema Gómez, fashion designer and founder of Slow Fashion Next, "sustainability is the preservation of life through the ecological, human, animal, plant and planetary balance. To do this, the current industry must focus on obtaining greater resource efficiency, reduce the toxicity of waste, recycling practice and start watching any material the possibility of a new product. " In fact, one of the most widespread practices among those who have joined this respectful model with the times is the upcycling, which is to create a new from an existing garment. The head of the magazine Laura Martinez explains that opt a sustainable fashion is something we can all aspire easy and environmentally friendly way. "Use an inherited piece of a sister or friend, buy second - hand clothes or care forour clothing so that we extend to them the life are some ideas to carry it out". It is also essential to avoid impulse purchases and make good planning before launching into the stores. "We must consider our style and our body.If we want the clothes to last us many seasons, it is necessary to invest in durable and timeless models , "he advises. This theory also incorporates Sònia Flotats, ethical fashion blogger and creator of the web SoGoodSoCute, which ensures that you can dress responsibly without losing the style. "Optimally , all llevásemos second - hand clothes or organic tissue, which also allows greater diversity and improves the welfare of the planet." There are more than a dozen labels that certify that the product in question was placed under the premises fair trade, which always involves a decent salary workers. With the express purpose of not lead to misunderstanding, the German Minister Gerd Müller launched an action plan in October 2014 called Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, in which he proposed that all these symbols were unified into one, in order to be clearer.It is still running. While there are very specific symbols, such as the Global Organic Textile Standard, which certifies that the garment (organic fiber) has religiously followed the ecological guidelines recommended when processing, or Fairtrade which ensures that the benefits are shared equally among all producers. In addition, the initiative led by Müller has among its priorities require participating companies to follow agreed rules to improve the working conditions of its workers and environmental improvement in the developing country. Its members are companies like Adidas, Puma or Lidl. For all pockets? The general discourse wields, however, is not a cheap fashion. But before launching these judgments, it is useful to identify each stage of the manufacturing process.Gomez the details: "From the production of raw materials to processing into fabrics, garments go through different stages: the manufacture, distribution and retail; the use and consumption and, finally, the end of life the same, analyzing and quantifying the impacts in each of these phases. Ecologically - designed organic materials are used for minimal environmental impact, locally produced and invested in managing better logistics in order to get a lower impact on commuting, and a smaller amount of packaging ". In short, dress sustainable it is betting on a less polluted planet, a labor rights and tissue more ... a healthier body? Would not be. Most of these garments do not contain dyes and other chemicals to which a few (the truth is that most pound) generates irritant dermatitis. In short, a slow business, but very round. ©